November 10-November 17, 2001

Last week's report originated from Pete and Nancy's driveway near Richmond VA. We had enjoyed an unexpected Saturday evening tour of Richmond with them, and it added a lot to our understanding of the Southern culture. It has been difficult for us to fully appreciate the strong feelings about the Civil War here, but now that we have seen the old Confederate Capitol, with the prominent monuments to Civil War leaders and Generals, we have a much better understanding..... something quite valuable as we continue to "boondock" across snow free (we hope) Southern territory. We treated our engine to an oil change, and thank Pete for volunteering his driveway and town waste oil recycling facility for the cause. After joining Pete and Nancy for church, and a GREAT barbecue lunch, we then departed for a location with a strong digital cellphone signal, and found it in Petersburg VA, where we spent the night in a Walmart parking lot and used our free weekend minutes to send this report.

Monday morning Nov 12 we departed for the outer banks, on the way replenishing fuel and propane in expectation of higher prices there. We arrived in Kitty Hawk mid afternoon, and after locating the only Walmart on the Outer Banks, went on to visit the Wright brother's memorial six miles South in Kill Devil Hills.

This was quite interesting; among other things, we learned to have at least SOME faith in signs, at least those warning of prickly pear cactus in the grass....we are still picking the spines from our shoes. I do wonder how the Wrights managed to survive landing their aircraft here..... :-)

After spending the night at the Kitty Hawk Walmart, we continued South to Jockey's Ridge State Park, the largest sand dune on the East coast. We enjoyed a hike in the sand, re-launched a downed kite we found on the sand, and found a few (well, maybe more than a few...) wild persimmons to replenish us while we walked.

After lunch we crossed the bridge to Roanoke Island and toured Ft Raleigh National Monument. Although we do not know the EXACT location of this first English settlement on Roanoke Island, this monument re-enacts the events as recorded. The reason for the colonists disappearance is unknown, but animosity with local Indians was recorded, with killings on both sides. We enjoyed our own personal visitors center here; we were outnumbered two to one by the staff. :-) We really love the outer banks at this time of year; the facilities everywhere are very nice and considerably under utilized. After driving the RV through the narrow roads of the commercial fishing town of Wanchese on the Southern tip of Roanoke Island, we stopped at the Dare County visitors center and Claire cooked dinner. Tuna noodle casserole; we continue to feed very high up on the food chain..... After dinner we moved to Dare County Municipal Airport to spend the night. It is obvious that State and Federal and County governments spend significantly to develop the area as a tourist attraction. The weather is also quite comfortable; days are warm, high 50's to 70, and the heat comes on just a few times during the night (We really should find time to install the outdoor min-max thermometer).

Wednesday morning Nov 14 we drove to Manteo, the largest town on Roanoke Island, and after backing into a municipal parking spot barely large enough for the RV, clearing tree limbs top rear and sides by inches, we walked through Festival Park. The waterfront nature trail boardwalk was peaceful, the North Carolina Maritime Museum (where they have a working "make and break" ignition marine engine like we had heard POP-POP-POPing loudly when we sailed Nova Scotia 25 years ago) was VERY intriguing. We also enjoyed watching a tourist shop blacksmith start his coal fired forge for the day, and received a personal explanation as he fashioned a nail from a piece of round rod stock; That nail will get it's share of scarce "souvenir" space on the RV.

Wednesday afternoon we moved South into Cape Hatteras National seashore, stopped at Bodie Light station to have our National Park Passport book stamped and look at the lighthouse museum exhibits. After crossing Oregon Inlet bridge, the Island narrowed such that we could frequently see water on both sides. We stopped briefly at a turnout and Claire sampled the ocean water; she declared it "almost swimmable". I'm not sure it meets MY 80 degree plus standard though.... :-) Mid afternoon we arrived at Ocean Waves campground where we intended to say the night, replenish water and dump the waste tanks. This is our first experience with a "full hookup" campground; electricity, water AND sewer. It is nice to be able to take LONG showers without worrying about overflowing the waste tank. We went walking on the Atlantic Ocean beach late afternoon, headed for a fishing pier a mile up the beach.

It was dark before we got there, but the pier was well lighted and easy to find; the return trip was in the dark. We used our blue key chain flashlights to very good advantage finding the obscure path from the beach to the campground. THANKS Jed! I've GOT to remember to take the GPS when we walk! It is so easy to find our way back with that.

Thursday Nov 15 we took advantage of the campground hookups in the morning to do chores requiring water and electricity; i.e, cleaning. The place was closing for the season, and was almost deserted several hours before the noon checkout time. We left minutes before noon to drive the 30 miles South to the state operated free ferry terminal in Hatteras. We arrived 15 minutes before the 2PM scheduled departure, and cued up in line. We were hardly noticed, and a large dump truck went ahead of us. I was scolded by the ferry attendant for looking in my mirrors at the 2 inch gap between our roof and the boat's second deck overhang instead of at his signals, though; but trust to that degree he had not yet earned. :-) Only when we arrived safely (and Claire drove off the boat) was I fully comfortable that the boat's rolling motion in seas could not swing our roof into that steel deck! In their defense, the only motion we felt at all was a few wakes from passing fishing boats and one bump as we crossed the inlet open to the sea. This was a very calm day, with no spray splashing; I'm sure our motorhome appreciates that even more than we and the cats do. We drove the 14 miles to the town of Ocracoke and the terminal for the toll ferry to Cedar Island. We reserved a space for the motorhome on Friday's 1PM boat, decided to park overnight in the ferry/visitors center parking lot, and walked around the town. We enjoyed the general store; it had a little bit of everything, and appeared to be heated by a pot bellied stove that was (from the color) used recently, although today's 70 degree temperatures would not require it. When we returned to the RV at dusk, Claire added dumplings to left over beef with cabbage soup; mmm mmm good! Later the phone rang; Matt called to discuss his holiday plans. It was nice to know the network worked when we needed it.

Friday we walked to see the Ocracoke lighthouse, poked through several artsy craft places, bought "breakfast" (two bananas) in the general store, and returned to have lunch before the 2.5 hour ferry crossing. The crossing went without incident, although I noticed a few drops of spray floating in the air...not splash, as we were on the lee side of the boat, but TINY droplets carried in the air eddies formed by the ferry center structure. The windshield showed light dotting of salt spray when we rove into the sun after the ride too, so a thorough wash is in our near future.

We drove toward Morehead City 40 miles away, and a reunion with Tony's Sanitary Fishmarket Restaurant; this relationship goes back to our sailing days too. We were always ready for a break by the time we arrived in Morehead City on the sailboat; the fishmarket restaurant was GREAT then, and it still has not changed. We ordered, and received a HUGE plate of the freshest fried oysters (I did not count 'em, cuz there were many more than I have fingers) served with the restaurant's trademark hush puppies; this is one place that has not changed in 25 years! :-) I was overjoyed to see DIGITAL cell service in Morehead City too, and just in time for weekend internet use!. We had analog service on the outer banks, mostly strong, but no good for internet connection. We then drove Rt. 70 through Morehead City and found the Walmart parking lot where we shopped and spent the night.

Saturday morning Nov 17 we awoke early to a cool RV; we had forgotten to turn the heat on, and now needed it. We are a few miles from the Ocean, and the nights are cooler. The propane furnace had us warm in 10 minutes, and we tried to connect to the internet; it did not connect! I wondered if we were in a digital area that did not support data (I hear there are some like that), but then noticed the cellphone was now working ANALOG; I swear it was digital last night after we parked here...GRRRRRR. Nothing to do but move on today and seek a digital area. I proceeded to work on this report, and glanced back at the cell phone.....TWICE; it was digital now! The connection worked, and the week's accumulation of email is transferring now. It is surprising how much we appreciate being in contact, and how we look forward to the free weekend minutes for voice and internet..... and how disappointed we can be when it does not work out as we wish also. :-) Verizon's National One Rate has been a most reliable service for us so far; The ONLY time I know that we did not have service was in the REAR of the RV in the middle of Pamlico Sound on the ferry. The rear was blocked by the boat's metal superstructure, while the front of the RV was clear of that, and we had a good signal.

From here we will head to New Bern, a town we always wanted to see, then work our way South through Myrtle Beach and along the Georgia coast. The weather in NC will turn cooler later in the week, but still not COLD, and not below freezing, so we should be able to pursue anything that interests us as we drift South. We hope you ALL have a GREAT turkey day, and have no fear; this day we definitely are not what we eat. :-) We saw a turkey breast in Walmart that looks made for our convection oven, so closer to the big day we will buy one (so we need not keep it frozen). Y'all HAVE FUN - we sure are!